Growing Organic Cucumbers is as Easy as 1-2-3!
WHEN TO PLANT
We recommend planting sprouted seeds outdoors 3-4 weeks after the last frost date or when the soil temperature is a steady 70F or higher during the day. Your plants will perform better than earlier plantings and eventually pass them up in growth.
WHERE TO PLANT
Cucumbers need at least 8 hours of full sun daily.
PREPARING THE SOIL
Cucumbers require a high level of soil nutrients and develop optimally in fertile, clay soil with plenty of humus (dark organic material produced by the decomposition of vegetable or animal matter; also known as compost).
Before planting, apply 1”-2” of rich compost to your planting area and check pH levels to be sure they are between 6.0 and 6.8.
SEEDS AND GERMINATION
Cucumbers are capable of germinating in soil temperature as low as 60F; anything below that and the seeds are more likely to rot before they sprout. The ideal temperature is 85-95F, which will germinate the seeds in 3 days. Seed should last 5 years from your purchase date if stored in a cool, dry place.
GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)
Cucumber plants don't handle being transplanted well. Disrupting the root system can permanently hinder your plants so growing seedlings indoors is not recommended.
If you have a shorter growing season, you can speed up the process by sprouting your seeds indoors a few days before planting outside.
To do this, place your seeds between a warm, wet paper towel and put it in a Ziploc bag. Place the bag in a warm, lighted location. Once the seeds sprout, plant outside immediately.
SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)
Cucumbers love high humidity and warmth up to 95F.
Both vine and bush varieties produce the best yields when the plants have something to climb. This could be a fence, trellis, vertical pole, or even another plant. Providing support will help to minimize rot, waste, and disease in your crop.
If planting in a row, plant your seeds 18” apart. Mounding the soil to make raised rows will provide extra warmth for your plants, giving your plants excellent growth.
If planting in hills, create hills 3’ in diameter with 4-5’ spacing between the center of each hill. Plant 5-6 seeds per hill. Once the seedlings develop 2-3 true leaves, thin the plants by snipping the weaker seedlings and leaving the three most vigorous plants.
Once the plants are 1’ high, provide something for them (a fence, trellis, etc.) to climb.
Once production begins, harvest your cucumbers regularly (daily) to extend the growing season.
When even one cucumber is allowed to reach full maturity, (shown by yellowing around the ends and a plump fruit), “shutting down” occurs. This will signal the plant that the season has ended and stop producing.
Using a liquid organic leaf spray every couple of weeks has proven to improve production and sweetness/flavor in cucumbers in our garden. It works with your plant to produce more plant sugar, producing stronger plants, more blooms, and sweeter cucumbers.
WATERING
Cucumbers are 95% water, therefore it is very important to maintain moist, well-drained soil throughout the season.
Soak soil deeply during dry spells. Lay down 2” organic mulch such as straw, hay, grass clippings or leaves. Mulch will conserve moisture and suppress weeds and help to keep the fruits clean.
If using overhead watering, do it in the morning so the leaves have time to try out before evening which will minimize disease.
COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION
Good garden companions to cucumbers are corn, sunflowers, and beans as they thrive under the same soil conditions. They also provide an object to climb which helps to stabilize them.
Radishes, nasturtiums, and marigolds are also excellent companions as they are known to repel the cucumber beetle, and dill will help in attracting predatory insects.
Cucumbers DO NOT perform well planted next to potatoes or aromatic herbs. Avoid following cucumbers of any type.
WHEN TO HARVEST
Harvest cucumbers when they are still small and dark green all over. Once they begin to yellow at the blossom end that is an indication the cucumber is overripe.
STORAGE
The cucumber itself is best eaten fresh and will store in the refrigerator for about a week. Cucumbers can be lacto-fermented or pickled and canned to enjoy throughout the year.
COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS
Cucumber Beetles (Striped and Spotted) are the greatest threat to your growing cucumbers. Adult beetles are ¼” long with black heads and greenish-yellow wings.
These bugs can decimate your seedlings and chew large jagged holes through the leaves of maturing plants. Examine the foliage and inside of the blooms daily; destroy any beetles you find.
Covering plants (especially seedlings) with netting such as a floating row cover will help minimize cucumber beetles but this will also prevent bees from pollinating if netting is left on once flowering occurs. Either remove netting or hand pollinate blossoms.
Cucumber beetles are attracted to bitter compounds (cucurbitacins) that cause bitterness in the fruit so planting non-bitter varieties will reduce the attraction. Using a liquid organic leaf spray will also help make your cucumbers sweeter.
Other potential pests include cut worms, aphids, and spider mites which can be treated with insecticidal soaps. Be cautious, foliage is easily burned by insecticidal soap and copper sprays so use the greatest dilution offered in the directions.
Spray plants when not in the direct sun and temperatures are below 80 F. Don't spray plants if moisture levels are not adequate or plants are stressed from drought.
We recommend planting sprouted seeds outdoors 3-4 weeks after the last frost date or when the soil temperature is a steady 70F or higher during the day. Your plants will perform better than earlier plantings and eventually pass them up in growth.
WHERE TO PLANT
Cucumbers need at least 8 hours of full sun daily.
PREPARING THE SOIL
Cucumbers require a high level of soil nutrients and develop optimally in fertile, clay soil with plenty of humus (dark organic material produced by the decomposition of vegetable or animal matter; also known as compost).
Before planting, apply 1”-2” of rich compost to your planting area and check pH levels to be sure they are between 6.0 and 6.8.
SEEDS AND GERMINATION
Cucumbers are capable of germinating in soil temperature as low as 60F; anything below that and the seeds are more likely to rot before they sprout. The ideal temperature is 85-95F, which will germinate the seeds in 3 days. Seed should last 5 years from your purchase date if stored in a cool, dry place.
GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)
Cucumber plants don't handle being transplanted well. Disrupting the root system can permanently hinder your plants so growing seedlings indoors is not recommended.
If you have a shorter growing season, you can speed up the process by sprouting your seeds indoors a few days before planting outside.
To do this, place your seeds between a warm, wet paper towel and put it in a Ziploc bag. Place the bag in a warm, lighted location. Once the seeds sprout, plant outside immediately.
SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)
Cucumbers love high humidity and warmth up to 95F.
Both vine and bush varieties produce the best yields when the plants have something to climb. This could be a fence, trellis, vertical pole, or even another plant. Providing support will help to minimize rot, waste, and disease in your crop.
If planting in a row, plant your seeds 18” apart. Mounding the soil to make raised rows will provide extra warmth for your plants, giving your plants excellent growth.
If planting in hills, create hills 3’ in diameter with 4-5’ spacing between the center of each hill. Plant 5-6 seeds per hill. Once the seedlings develop 2-3 true leaves, thin the plants by snipping the weaker seedlings and leaving the three most vigorous plants.
Once the plants are 1’ high, provide something for them (a fence, trellis, etc.) to climb.
Once production begins, harvest your cucumbers regularly (daily) to extend the growing season.
When even one cucumber is allowed to reach full maturity, (shown by yellowing around the ends and a plump fruit), “shutting down” occurs. This will signal the plant that the season has ended and stop producing.
Using a liquid organic leaf spray every couple of weeks has proven to improve production and sweetness/flavor in cucumbers in our garden. It works with your plant to produce more plant sugar, producing stronger plants, more blooms, and sweeter cucumbers.
WATERING
Cucumbers are 95% water, therefore it is very important to maintain moist, well-drained soil throughout the season.
Soak soil deeply during dry spells. Lay down 2” organic mulch such as straw, hay, grass clippings or leaves. Mulch will conserve moisture and suppress weeds and help to keep the fruits clean.
If using overhead watering, do it in the morning so the leaves have time to try out before evening which will minimize disease.
COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION
Good garden companions to cucumbers are corn, sunflowers, and beans as they thrive under the same soil conditions. They also provide an object to climb which helps to stabilize them.
Radishes, nasturtiums, and marigolds are also excellent companions as they are known to repel the cucumber beetle, and dill will help in attracting predatory insects.
Cucumbers DO NOT perform well planted next to potatoes or aromatic herbs. Avoid following cucumbers of any type.
WHEN TO HARVEST
Harvest cucumbers when they are still small and dark green all over. Once they begin to yellow at the blossom end that is an indication the cucumber is overripe.
STORAGE
The cucumber itself is best eaten fresh and will store in the refrigerator for about a week. Cucumbers can be lacto-fermented or pickled and canned to enjoy throughout the year.
COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS
Cucumber Beetles (Striped and Spotted) are the greatest threat to your growing cucumbers. Adult beetles are ¼” long with black heads and greenish-yellow wings.
These bugs can decimate your seedlings and chew large jagged holes through the leaves of maturing plants. Examine the foliage and inside of the blooms daily; destroy any beetles you find.
Covering plants (especially seedlings) with netting such as a floating row cover will help minimize cucumber beetles but this will also prevent bees from pollinating if netting is left on once flowering occurs. Either remove netting or hand pollinate blossoms.
Cucumber beetles are attracted to bitter compounds (cucurbitacins) that cause bitterness in the fruit so planting non-bitter varieties will reduce the attraction. Using a liquid organic leaf spray will also help make your cucumbers sweeter.
Other potential pests include cut worms, aphids, and spider mites which can be treated with insecticidal soaps. Be cautious, foliage is easily burned by insecticidal soap and copper sprays so use the greatest dilution offered in the directions.
Spray plants when not in the direct sun and temperatures are below 80 F. Don't spray plants if moisture levels are not adequate or plants are stressed from drought.
